NINH BINH TRAVEL GUIDE
Ninh Binh (pronounced Neeng Beeng) is the capital city of Ninh Binh Province in North Vietnam, famous for the nearby Karst scenery around the village of Tam Coc. There is nothing to do in Ninh Binh itself aside from drinking beer with the locals; the town is more useful as a base for the surrounding countryside.
See
· Tam Coc. One of Vietnam's most spectacular sights. If possible, take the boat ride in the morning before the excursion groups arrive from Hanoi, or late afternoon after the groups have left. Last boats start out about 5:30PM in the summer and 4:30PM in the winter. Its an easy bicycle ride here from Ninh Binh, with no hills. Beware, the floating drink sellers can be very persistent. Most will ask if you would like to buy a drink for the rower. This is usually sold back immediately for half price. Rowers can usually row with their feet as well as their hands, which makes quite an interest sight. Some boats have boxes loaded upon departure. They are filled with handicrafts (you can check it), and are meant for you to buy. Rowers are paid a minimum wage and have the right to a few tours a week only, so selling the famous Tam Coc hand-made embroideries, which the women rowers make at home, is the locals' main income. You are not obligated to buy any, but then, you should give the rower a tip as rowing is hard which they will tell you then ask for a tip. But don't expect a thank you as they will only complain that it isn't enough regardless of what amount you give them. The area around Tam Coc is equally beautiful, and is best viewed from the back of a motorbike or by bicycle. In Tam Coc itself, apart from the boat ride, there are 2 beautiful sites to visit ; Bich Dong Pagoda, 3 km after the Tam Coc Pier, built on one of the cliff and which provides incredible views (go all the way to the top of the cliff via the small passage on the right of the last pagoda, which is inside the cliff) and Tai Vi Temple, accessible via the small road on the right of the pier.
· Trang An Grottoes, (7 km from Ninh Binh). An easy bicycle ride away, Trang An Grottoes is similar to Tam Coc but with many more caves to pass through. Most caves have been widened in order for the boats to pass through and as result their natural beauty has been compromised. The first two caves are the most natural and beautiful but are also tight in places, so watch your head. Lots of concrete structures are being built all over the place and rice paddies are disappearing fast but hopefully this area will not lose its splendor. The site was mainly built for Vietnamese and Chinese tourists. However, you are much less likely to be bothered by vendors selling beverages and hand embroidered gifts. As with Tam Coc it is best to go early in the morning or in late afternoon (last boat is 4pm) to avoid the buses of tour groups coming from Hanoi. 150,000 per person.
· Hang Mua Peak. is one of the most spectacular sites to visit around Tam Coc (5 km from the "pier"). 450 steps bring you to the tip of the peak, from which you have a most spectacular 360° view of the entire region, the Red River Delta on the East and the mountains on the other sides. Definitely a Must visit if all those steps do not scare you. 100kđ.
· Cuc Phuong National Park, (45km from Ninh Binh), is approximately 1 to 1.5 hours from Ninh Binh. It is a well preserved rainforest with an Endangered Primates Rescue Centre near the entrance. You can visit the primates centre only with a guide, which costs an extra 50,000 dong per person. There are about 150 primates here being prepared for release back in the wild. Most are from other parts of Vietnam and any releases will be where they originally come from. There is also a botanical garden and a turtle center. There are no other major sights. From the entrance you can drive, motorbike or cycle a further 20 km along a densely rainforested road, from which several tracks lead you through the jungle to prehistoric trees and caves. Cycling is probably the most rewarding way to travel this 20 km of often steeply inclined paved road and mountain bikes can be hired at the park entrance. One of the amazing things about this drive is the 1000's upon 1000's of colourful butterflies filling the roadway. Peak time for butterflies apparently is during April and May but in later months there may still many to be seen. The road ends at the Park Centre (Bong) with a restaurant and a place to buy snacks, and where several forest walks start. Many of them require a guide (16$ per day, speaking good English and waiting at the reception), as the trailheads to the guided walks are hidden and in the past, tourists lost orientation in the dense forest, so rescue operations were required. One walk that can be done independ is 6-7 km long and leads through the primary rain forest with lianes etc. to a thousand-year-old tree. Some enjoy to touch the old cho xanh (parashrea stellata) and sau (Dracontomelum Duperranum or Dancorra Edulis) trees, 50-70 m high The best chance to see any animals here is at night. Guided night tours for overnight stayers are available costing $20. The park is also suitable to watch birds, butterflies and orchid flowers. They are more concentrated than in a typical butterfly farm enclosure. A limited amount of overnight accommodation is available in either a detached bungalow ($27) or a stilt house ($5-7). 40,000 dong entrance fee.
· Hoa Lu Ancient Capital. Ancient capital of Vietnam until 1010, this royal city is 15 km from Ninh Binh and Tam Coc. Not too much remains except for some beautiful archways and the temples of Dinh Tien Hoang, Nhat Tru Temple and Le Dai Hanh.
· Phat Diem Cathedral. 34 km from Ninh Binh, in the middle of the canals and the rice fields of the delta, the small commune of Phat Diem was during the French period the "Vatican of North Vietnam", it's St Peter being a huge cathedral built between 1874 and 1898. Mixing Eastern and Western architectural styles, it is quite spectacular, especially because of its size (75m x 27m x 15m height)and its interior with its huge iron wood columns. On each side have been built 2 small gothic chapels.
· Bich Dong Pagoda, (Follow the road pass the Tam Coc 'pier' for about 3km to the west.). An interesting 15th century pagoda with three levels in a steep Mountains side, offering nice views. Ha, Trung, and Thuong Pagodas, in ascending order. Some of the temples are build right into caves and you can explore. After the highest temple you may also like to ignore the sign and climb up the rocks (there is a clear path) to the top of the rock, the view is really worth the scramble, but not recommended with flip flops or the like. 20 kđ parking fee.
Eat
Mountain goat (de nui) meat is a local speciality, often eaten with fried rice (com chien). Another local specialty is cơm cháy (not to be confused withcơm chay, vegetarian food), which is the burnt rice off the bottom of the pot, served with pork. Duck features in many restaurants, and there are numerous dog-meat restaurants scattered throughout town (look for signs with a picture of a Great Dane or similar breed and the words thit cho).
The area near the train station has become a mini-backpacker area, and there are 4-5 backpacker cafes there with English menus and tourist prices (40,000-70,000d; coffee 15,000-20,000d). The three most popular restaurants are called "Good Food", "Cheap Good Food", and "Fast Food Cheap" (all on Hoang Hoa Tham).
Drink
There are plenty of Bia Hoi sellers along side the river in the late afternoon / evenings. One glass usually costs 5,000 dong.
Plenty of places sell sugar cane drink with ice for about 5,000 dong.
Vissai Hotel has a microbrewery selling a dark and light beer. 300 ML for 19000 dong.
Sleep
In Ninh Binh, there are a number of cheap hotels just outside the train station and next to the bus station. Other hotels are located near the center of town. As there is nothing to see in town, either area is suitable. The area near the train station has become a mini-backpacker district, complete with travel agents, touts, overpriced drinks and English-menu restaurants. But, as written above, most people sleep in amazing Tam Coc, with its vast array of new hotels from 4 stars to Backpackers dormitory.